Ulei pentru motor - Ce marca de ulei folositi

[GicaPhp 1]

Conform specificatiile tehnice:

 

 

RECOMMENDATIONS 

 

Oil change : according to your own use. 

Can be mixed with synthetic or mineral lubricants

 

Uleiul il schimbi conform regimului de exploatare.

 

Daca doriti sa nu luati un ulei "fals" cumparati doar de la cei care vand doar ulei MOTUL si lucreaza direct cu importatorul. Nu luati de la cei care vand si gogosi si bete de urechi pe alaturi si nu pot sa va ofere specificatii tehnice si sa va raspunda clar la intrebari daca aveti.

[ZyZ 264]

Nu prea KIP. E ulei proiectat sa-si pastreze caracteristicile in conditii extreme, dar pentru o durata limitata. Nu e un ulei de cursa lunga:

 

300V is not designed for extended oil change intervals, therefore it should be changed after track/race events, at 3000 miles on ultra high performance street vehicles or at 5000 miles on lower performance engines. APR Recommends 300V Power 5w40 for most high performance racing applications and 300V Le Mans 20w60 for 24 hour endurance racing with Audi R8 V10's. APR does not recommend use of low viscosity 300V oils for extended periods of time as the lower viscosity oils were not intended for street or long track use. For help choosing the correct 300V oil, please contact APR.

[Simi ON 2069]

Hmm, m-ati convins, urmatorul schimb va fi cu MOTUL

[KIP 687]

Eu iti spun de ani de zile. Vad ca degeaba.

[Simi ON 2069]

v-am mai spus de o suta de ori, cel mai bun ulei a fost valvoline, made in holand, luat de-acolo.

 

am "vazut" de fiecare data diferenta, trecand de la castrol de aici, la ala: de la zgomotul la rece, dimineata, pana la senzatia aia de "mers rotund" pe care-o avea, in mod vizibil, masina.

 

o sa radeti, da de vreo 3 ori m-am intors in bagaje cu 8 kile de ulei   in loc de toale si parfumuri

[KIP 687]

O fi fost dar acum vorbeam de Motul, pe care nu l-ai incercat, sharap, gen.

[Simi ON 2069]

pai da, va cred si-o sa procedez ca atare (si ma refer mai ales pe tine, ca stiu ca esti psiholux la faze d-astea)

[GicaPhp 1]

ZyZ, foarte utila informatia, multumim.

 

Insa cine sunt acesti APR?

 

APR LLC is an automotive engineering firm operating a 36,000 sq. ft. performance campus in Opelika, AL with over 80 employees. APRwas founded in 1997 with a corporate philosophy of Integrity, Excellence and Innovation. APR's Sole Mission is to provide the highest quality and most highly engineered aftermarket performance products available for Porsche, Audi and Volkswagen vehicles.

 

Acesti APR recomanda ca nu este pentru intervale prelungite, dar totusi nu produc ei acest ulei, probabil fac niste teste si  masoara diversi parametri, ceea ce este un lucru bun. Daca luam de buna ce zic ei, acest ulei sa fie schimbat la doar 3000 mile "on ultra high performance street vehicles" sau 5000 mile "on lower performance engines".

 

Nu scrie nicaieri durata de timp (minute, zile, luni).

 

Singura explicatie care o gasesc ar fi ca dilutia uleiul cu carburantul nu ar fi benefica pe termen lung uleiului. Voi ce ziceti?

v-am mai spus de o suta de ori, cel mai bun ulei a fost valvoline, made in holand, luat de-acolo.

 

 

Am inteles.

[ZyZ 264]

APR este unul din cei mai mari tuneri din Europa, care participa si in competitii majore, gen LeMans. O varianta e dilutia uleiului, care e prezenta, oricum, la orice ulei dar poate fi mai accentuata aici. O alta poate fi ca in ulei sunt compusi care nu-si pastreaza calitatile la expunere indelungata la temperaturi inalte, ci doar pe intervale scurte de timp.

 

http://www.goapr.co.uk/

Edited November 11, 2013 by ZyZ

[GicaPhp 1]

Da, si aceasta poate fi o cauza. Voi vorbi cu cineva care a urmat niste cursuri de speciliazare de la Motul sa vedem ce are de zis in privinta asta.

[Paul 565]

Insa cine sunt acesti APR?

Recomandarea privind utilizarea si intervalele de schimb este facuta de Motul, APR doar a preluat-o.

 

Singura explicatie care o gasesc ar fi ca dilutia uleiul cu carburantul nu ar fi benefica pe termen lung uleiului. Voi ce ziceti?

Sunt mult mai multe cauze, din care dilutia uleiului cu carburant la un motor obisnuit este cea mai putin importanta (in conditiile in care motorul functioneaza OK).

Asta conteaza mult mai mult la un motor utilizat in curse de anduranta decat la o masina de strada.

 

Foarte importanta este temperatura de functionare uleiului.

 

Apropo, uleiul 300V are o formula speciala care include in reteta si uleiuri vegetale.

 

Motul are si alte game de uleiuri, mai potrivite pentru utilizarea de zi cu zi.

[GicaPhp 1]

Unde ai citit ca este recomandarea Motul si doar preluata de APR? 

 

Stiu ca are game de uleiuri "potrivite pentru utilizarea de zi cu zi" dar era vorba daca se poate folosi intr-o masina de zi cu zi.

[D.Brasco 1]

De 3 ani de cand am masina ( 320d M47 ) am folosit doar bmw 5w30,schimbat intre 12 si 15k km.nu am avut nici o problema.

[cataxxl 1]

Din 2008 doar ulei original BMW il cumpar cand ajung prin Germania de la dealer de incredere si am mereu cateva baxuri de rezerva. Nu am avut nici cea mai mica neplacere in 5 ani. 

[Paul 565]

Cateva chestii interesante referitoare la ulei, la durata de viata a uleiului in functie de temperatura, la importanta racirii turbinii inainte de oprirea motorului.
Este vorba de un interviu cu Dave Wolman - Vice President of marketing for Motul USA.
 
Pe scurt.
 
Aditivii din ulei actioneaza doar peste o anumita temperatura. Daca temperatura uleiului nu ajunge la o anumita temperatura atunci nu se mai ard impuritatile din ulei si nu se mai elimina nici condensul.
 
E important sa nu se opreasca motorul imediat la sosirea dintr-o calatorie, pentru a proteja turbina. Ideea e ca turbina e racita cu ulei. Daca oprim motorul cand turbina este incinsa, atunci exista riscul ca se arda uleiul ramas in lagarele turbinei. Se formeaza astfel depozite de carbon, care in timp vor impiedica ungerea corecta, ducand la uzura prematura a turbinei.
 
MS:  Dave, please introduce yourself and Motul to our members.
DW:  I am Vice President of marketing for Motul USA, Inc.
 
DW: An ester based synthetic is not pumped out of the ground. They are collected from vegetables, coconuts and Methyl products. It drives the prices way up. Mobil 1 and Castrol are designed for modern street cars. 300 V is designed for performance.
Some of our products may be designed for energy conservation but they will never have energy conserving paramount and that is a complete difference in theory. We like to have some resistance on the rings because the rings are meant to seal. A total reduction of friction on the other hand is not very good for internal combustion motors.
You have to have some properties to make sure the rings are sealing, etc. We use a different additive package and a different base.

Other products are designed for moderate horsepower, moderate performance and moderate compression.

What we do with the 300 V is developing it for high performance first not a mileage situation. The 300 V is the top of our line and has major portions of research and chemistry modification research going on constantly. It is constantly looked at.
 

We now have 10w40, 15w50 and 15w60 among others. This is for different applications for different cars.
Our 15w60 was made to tackle fuel dilution problems in 24 hour racing like at LeMans. After so much time, in the race, they get a lot of blow by and fuel getting past the rings during the race. This will thin out the oil so much that they had to actually create a 15w60 oil viscosity so that by the end of the race there would be enough viscosity left to hold or cushion the motor.
 

MS: What weight do you recommend for the 351C that might hit the track now and then but mostly sees street use on an infrequent basis?
DW: I would recommend a 15w50 for most performance vehicles except for cars like the new Hondas that are very, very tight on the pistons and lifters. There we use a 10w40 or 5/30.
A 15w50 has a pour point of 22 degrees below zero. An ambient temperature of 30 degrees Farenheit, and above should be fine for a 15w50 oil.
10w40 is for lower temperatures. With this oil, it will be almost impossible for the motor to destroy the ester based portion of the oil. It almost is inshearable. That motor won't place enough stress, even if it is built to destroy the ester.

 

The additive package is something we can't control. For example, if an owner only starts his engine occasionally and doesn't properly warm the engine up for long enough to get the oil temperature past 160 degrees, it doesn't burn off any of the impurities. At 160 the additives begin to work. At 180 degrees you burn off all of the condensation. It starts to steam out to the recirculating system.

 

All of those contribute to the change time when the owner never takes the car out for a long enough drive to get it warm. This results in gas in the crankcase that never burns off. I would recommend an oil change under those conditions even sooner, for example 2,000 miles.
I have checked the oil at 7,000 mile intervals and have not had any problems. However, I have had cases where at 3000 miles there was sodium and coolant in the oil and all kinds of stuff. It mostly depends upon the condition of the car and who is driving it. I would say, 3-5000 miles on our 300 V would be the average.
 

 

MS:  Any advice for our forced induction owners on oil?
DW: Yes, one of the advantages of the ester based products is just like in our example of the butter burning. If you burn that butter you get a carbon mess. If you put olive oil in, even on fire, what it leaves behind is almost nothing, there are very few coking deposits.

The advantage of 300 V is that the ester based products do not leave coking deposits if they burn.

 

What kills turbos and their bearings is not only the heat, but when you shut the engine down, pumping oil to the turbo stops, the races remain hot. When you look at the bearings taken from heat affected areas, they have a brown haze on them and what that is are the races cooking in the oil and building up a film. When you go to start the engine again, the bearings rub that film down but what you are starting to do is building a film on the bearings and that is what kills the bearings because the oil doesn't have space to take up or go around the race and eventually it will squeeze so hard that it won't let any oil in as a flow and you break the heat treat.

The 300 V is very good for the turbos because it doesn't leave deposits when the motor is shut off and cooling down.
 
Articolul complet poate fi gasit aici: http://www.motorspot.com/motulin.html

[GicaPhp 1]

Foarte interesanta toata discutia.

 

Multmesc.

300V cel mai bine este de folosit in conditii extreme, acolo isi arata performantele.

[Pole 3728]

Bun, deci am decis sa fac schimbul sper sapt asta, daca am timp, cu MOTUL 8100 X-clean+ 5W30, mie nu imi place deloc cum se aude motorul la rece cu uleiul asta BMW.

[KIP 687]

Foarte bine te-ai decis.

[Claudiu 2]

Bun, deci am decis sa fac schimbul sper sapt asta, daca am timp, cu MOTUL 8100 X-clean+ 5W30, mie nu imi place deloc cum se aude motorul la rece cu uleiul asta BMW.

[Pole 3728]

DAR sa fie clar, daca nu observ nici o diferenta... hmm, pai KIP si Caludiu imi dau banii pe ulei, ca eu am facut schimbul cu ulei OEM BMW, acum vreo 1500 km   deci acest schimb il fac doar asa, la recomandarea lor.

[Claudiu 2]

DAR sa fie clar, daca nu observ nici o diferenta... hmm, pai KIP si Caludiu imi dau banii pe ulei, ca eu am facut schimbul cu ulei OEM BMW, acum vreo 1500 km   deci acest schimb il fac doar asa, la recomandarea lor.

lol

[ZyZ 264]

Deci daca intreaba cineva, eu i-am recomandat ulei Lukoil.

[Paul 565]

Eu recomand ulei Rompetrol

 

Pole, sunt tare curios daca va exista o reducere a zgomotului la rece.

Actualul ulei BMW zici ca are doar 1500km. Ar insemna ca uleiul original BMW pe care l-ai pus e de fapt o posirca chinezesca.

[KIP 687]

Lol, pai eu nu ti-am zis sa scoti uleiul de abia pus. Cu toate ca, deja iti recomandasem Motul si vad ca nu ai ascultat.

 

Pe de alta parte, ti-am recomandat eu ceva aiurea vreodata ?

[Pole 3728]

pai eu nu zic ca uleiul e naspa sau chinezarie, insa asa mi se pare mie, ca are un zgomot accentuat la rece, posibil sa mi se si para... ca idee, uleiul este luat de la Grozadan.

 

ma rog, sa vad maine, ca maine il schimb.